Oily skin after menopause: why, when skin is supposed to get drier

Everyone warned you that skin gets drier after menopause. So why is yours shiny by lunchtime, with pores that look bigger than ever?

You're not imagining it, and it isn't a contradiction. Here's what's going on.

On average, oil goes down

Let's start with what the research says. Oil production peaks in your late teens. In women, it falls gradually after menopause and levels off in your 70s.¹ In one study of 100 postmenopausal women, oil output dropped over the first decade after menopause.²

So most women do get less oily. But "on average" hides a lot. The same study found huge differences from one woman to the next.² If you're on the oily end, there are good reasons why.

Why some skin feels oilier anyway

The balance shifts. Estrogen holds oil production in check. Androgens, like testosterone, switch it on. After menopause, estrogen falls a long way, while testosterone stays fairly steady.³ At the same time, the protein that keeps testosterone bound up (SHBG) drops, so more of the testosterone you have is free to act.⁴ Researchers call this relative androgen excess. It can show up as oil, breakouts, and new hair on the chin.³

Breakouts don't stop at 50. In one survey, about 1 in 7 women over 50 still reported acne.⁵ Research on menopausal acne is limited, but hormone balance is thought to be the main driver.³

Hormone therapy can play a part. Testosterone therapy, for example, can increase oil and breakouts in some women.⁶ If your skin changed when your medication did, mention it to your prescriber.

Why pores look bigger

This one surprises people. Pores can look larger even when oil goes down.

Pore size depends on three things: how much oil you make, how big the follicle is, and how firm the skin around it is.⁷ After menopause, the oil glands themselves get bigger,¹ and the collagen that holds pores tight thins out. In the study above, pores got larger over the decade after menopause even as oil output fell.²

So "bigger pores" after menopause is often about firmness, not oil.

What helps

• Don't strip. A harsh face wash can irritate skin and trigger even more oil.⁸ Use a gentle cleanser, up to twice a day.
• Skip the astringents and scrubs. They make skin more reactive, not less oily.⁹
• Go light, not oil-free-at-all-costs. A light gel moisturizer labeled non-comedogenic keeps skin hydrated without clogging.⁸ Dehydrated skin can look shinier, not less.
• Blot, don't rub. Press blotting papers on during the day.⁸
• Consider niacinamide. In a placebo-controlled study, 2% niacinamide lowered oil output in some groups of people.¹⁰ It's one of the few cosmetic ingredients with data on oil.

In our formulas, Plump's niacinamide balances the look of oil, and Prep gives weightless hydration that won't feel heavy. Neither has retinol, so there's no ramp-up.

When to see a doctor

Oilier skin and a few breakouts are common in the years around menopause. But see your doctor if new breakouts come with fast-growing facial or body hair, thinning hair on your scalp, or a deeper voice. These signs are rarely serious, but they're worth checking, especially if they appear quickly.¹¹ A dermatologist can also prescribe treatments for persistent breakouts.³

Read next

If your skin is dry some days and oily others, that's the perimenopause version of this story: Dry some days, oily others.

 

With care,
Afsheen & Samantha